Part 1: Preparing to head up Denali

I’d been so busy the last few weeks with leaving my job as well as sorting logistics and kit for this trip, my upcoming trek, and the Atlantic row that I hadn’t had time to let the Denali expedition to sink in. The climb involves some serious glacial terrain and combined with the intense cold and wind as well as extreme northerly latitude, which leads to thinner air, the mountain is not to be underestimated. Sitting on the plane though I wasn’t worried but excited about what was in store. Rather than focus on the summit at the end, I planned to enjoy each day and hope for the best!

The morning of Wednesday 1 June we had an expedition orientation at a hotel in Anchorage where I met the rest of the team: a head guide and two, junior guides, and five other clients. Between the other clients there were quite a few Aconcagua summits, a Denali attempt, ironmen triathlons, military experience, a channel swim, and even an Everest summit! After a kit inspection (ruthlessly keeping our packs as light as possible) we went into town for lunch and some people picked up any extra items needed for the mountain. We relaxed in the evening, got to know each other better, and tasted the delicious local Alaskan sockeye salmon.

The next day we had an early start, driving just over two hours via Wasilla to Talkeetna – a small town with a few tourist shops (lots of Moose antlers!), restaurants, bars and an air strip. Once in Talkeetna, we unloaded, organised, and weighed all of our equipment and supplies in preparation for our flight to the glacier as well as setting up our sleds. We also attend a pre-climb orientation provided by one of the National Park Service (NPS) Rangers who went through the route as well as hygiene on the mountain. He explained that all human waste had to be in Clean Mountain Cans (CMCs), to be carried out or disposed of in a crevasse, and peeing was only in certain areas. Not sure I'm looking forward to using the can! The route we were attempting up Denali was the West Buttress, which over 90% of people attempt. First climbed in 1951 this covers 16.5 miles of horizontal distance and 13,570ft of ascent.

We were supposed to fly out at 3pm that day but the visibility up on the mountain was poor so ended up staying in town for the night and then scrambled to depart at 7pm the next day (just as we were about to give up for another night and order some beers!). The 30 minute flight up to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier was stunning with spectacular views of the range: Mt Foraker, Mt Hunter, the Moose’s Tooth, and Denali itself. It was almost 8.30pm by the time we unpacked the kit and set up tents for the night on the glacier at 7200ft. Very excited to have made it to the mountain and can’t wait to start climbing...